A walk on the ‘Curry Mile’

This is Manchester’s ‘Curry Mile’.

You can eat around the world on Curry Mile, sampling everything from Indian to Pakistani to Lebanese to Turkish to Afghan cuisine. There are sights and smells of South-Asia and Middle-East and there is fun-fare like scene. Restaurants flashing bright neon lights, Indian and Pakistani women dressed in silk kurti and saree, Muslim men dressed in traditional Shrvani and Pathani outfits, British born Desis speaking broken Hindi and Punjabi, Chinese trying to learn English and selling pirated DVDs of Bollywood movies and amidst all these local British population trying to find their place in this mini-Asia in Manchester.

The ‘Curry Mile’ is a modern and dynamic place with traditional Asian values that celebrates its rich mixture of origins, cultures, religions, languages and customs. It is a place where most of South-Asia, Middle-East and now North Africa find comfort. This is Wilmslow Road in Manchester better known as the ‘Curry Mile’. Reports suggest that in the late 1950s and 60s, cafés on Wilmslow Road were the meeting place for huge number of men from the Asian subcontinent, who had been recruited to work in the textile mills and factories of Greater Manchester. But today, with the presence of huge number of students at the University of Manchester from across the world the face of the town has undergone a paradigm shift. BBC report suggests that it took only 15 years for Rusholme to become a non-Asian living area to Asian dominated locality.

Manchester’s journey from a textile trade centre to university hub has changed the demography of the town. The change resulted in not only mass exodus of local British families to other parts of the town, but lucrative business opportunities attracted Asian men to work at the textile mills in 1950s and 1960s and now international students flocking into the town. But many of the Indians and Pakistanis are from Uganda who were expelled from the country by Idi Amin and from Kenya now, holding British passport. Few Kashmiri Muslims who hesitate in spelling the word Azadi, but at the same time look at the brighter side of freedom enjoyed in UK and Gujarati Muslims from Bharuch and Surat in India. Gujarati Muslim females dressed in beautiful white, pink and sky blue burqas and men wearing white kurta and traditional Bohri-Islamic cap decorated in gold and silver thread.

From traditional shopping town offering English goods and textile products to Business owned by Asians to the recent inroads by supermarkets the Curry Miles appears to be undergoing another round of change. But with disappointed youth from various parts of Asia coming into Manchester, but Bollywood music and the food business keeps the spirit at Curry Mile alive. Bilal from Spice Kitchen a take-away owned by a Pakistani says, “At Curry Mile you feel at home. We have students from India and Pakistan coming to us as customer and they never give us a feeling that we are in the UK.” Whereas on the other hand Salman a student from Pakistan says, “UK is better from employment point of view as Pakistan is in turmoil and as the ‘Curry Mile’ gives you a feeling of a home away from home will stay here till situation gets better back home.” Salman is working part-time in a convenience store owned by Patel family from Gujarat in India.

Some knowledge of history of Britain’s international relations and little knowledge of South Asian and Middle Eastern language revels the issues discussed on the ‘Curry Mile’. From Bush to Obama to Osama to Kashmir to brilliant goal scored by Roony – everything is discussed over a cup of ‘chai’ – Indian tea and shisha with Bollywood music being played in the background.

But mouth watering smell of ‘chicken tikka’ and ‘chaat’ is tempting enough to take you away from some of the serious issues. David from Wembly says, “I have grown up eating Gujarati food and Indian ‘chaat’. I am visiting my friend here in Manchester and when I learnt that there is an Indian ‘chaat’ house I just popped in to taste some and now I have got used to with the spicy food from India.”

Giles Burnett in his report suggests that until 1960s, Rusholme was an ordinary suburban shopping district occupying an obscure niche in the lower rungs of Greater Manchester’s retail hierarchy. Most shops occupied the ground floor of the late nineteenth-century building linings, but through an evolutionary process most shops have been converted into famous restaurants majority of them owned by Indians and Pakistanis.

A wander down Wilmslow Road reveals a bustling area filled with take-aways, grocers, boutiques and various other shops catering to Asian, Arabic and white clientele amongst others. But this patch of Manchester is different from rest of ‘White’ Manchester. A whole range of newly quarters have being promoted: Chia Town, the Gay Village, Salford Quays, Sport City etc. The Curry Mile though a stone’s throw away, has escaped the influence of British culture and has made space for Asian culture. Even the bus drivers running along the ‘Curry Mile’ are from different parts of Asia who speaks Punjabi, Hindi and Urdu with fluent English to deal with local British population and greets in Arabic with passengers from Middle East.

A second wave of change has come to ‘Curry Mile’ with supermarkets and influx of Arabs from North Iraq better known as Kurdishtan running call-on-taxi services. But the ‘Curry Mile’ is in no mood to lose its South Asian charm as this patch is overwhelmed by indian and Pakistani community and their vibrant cultural colour that comes with a tint of Britishness.

The long haul begins

Osma Bin Laden – the world’s most dreaded terrorist is dead, but leaves behind a legacy of violence, mass murder and ideology of hatred. An ideology of bloodshed and cruelty – only to be furthered by various Al Qaeda splinter groups and his second and third line of leadership.

While his elimination brings jubilation to 9/11 victim families and many other across America, however is a grim reminder of his fundamentalist and radical ideology that has worked to pose Islam against other cultures. The roots of the hate ideology are not only to be traced the fundamentalist way, but the so called Americanisation of cultures, oil politics that White House has played over the years and the sheer neglect of Afghanistan in post Cold War years.

Some might see this as the ‘beginning of the end game in Afghanistan’ and “justice delivered”. But the flip side of the coin according to Bin Laden and his followers has been withdrawal of American forces from the Arabian Peninsula, Arab land free from Jews and Christians and full stop to the invasion of American culture onto the Muslim lands. This is the ideological lineage that terror groups from Arabia have been following in order to further their agenda of hate and violence.

Many scholars in post 9/11 world acknowledged Sayyid Qutb the Egyptian radical ideologist to be the intellectual godfather of Islamic movements like Al Qaeda and its activities like the WTC attacks. Now, that Osama is claimed to be dead and buried in the sea some of the major terror outfits from Pakistan have started giving fresh calls to the vulnerable sections of the Islamic society not by actions yet, but by gestures of leading the mass prayers dedicated to Osama Bin Laden. The presence of Hafeez Mohammad Saeed the leader of Jama’at-Ud-Dawa in Quetta, Pakistan is one such reminder of the strong presence of Osama’s ideology in his absence. His open support to Osama and Pakistan’s inaction is a clear indication of coming diplomatic conflicts between India-Pakistan, shifting war on terror from Afghanistan to Pakistan and latter’s tryst with ideological bomb that might implode any time.

While the ground battle continuous boosting America’s military hegemony to new heights it continuous to face questions over the battle against its own ideology of violence. Remember, while Osama was a terrorist that killed thousands – America does not personify peace to many. Osama’s death has come to pose many questions to America. What kind of economy is America? Coke for Oil? What kind of nation is it? Diplomacy of peace through barrel of the gun? And, what kind of nation you would want to become? A nation that seeks peace in SUVs? These are the answers with question marks and are equally applicable to rest of the international community.

The countries in the Middle East and North Africa have just revolted against their dictators that were once supported by America and other Western countries. This could well be the new breeding ground for extremist forces. The Christian Science Monitorreports Libya possibly be the new heaven for Al Qaeda forces with Tunisia, Algeria and Egypt not far away. The political and security equations have become even more complicated with Osama’s absence as revenge seekers are expected to strike. It is hard to think that extremist forces will miss the pleasure in revenge.

The world was never safe with Osama, but in his absence has become even more uncomfortable with countries raising the security levels and making precautionary arrests. The mascot of international terrorism has been eliminated, but the war on terror continuous with his ideology that is deep rooted.

It took almost 10 years to find and kill Osama, but will require more than 100 years to erase his ideology. He lives in hearts and minds of many, but not all. His words have spoken louder than his actions forcing many to join his Jihad. And, he will continue to survive on YouTube and Face Book.

Former American President George Bush in his address to the Congress shortly after 9/11 said, “Americans should not expect one battle, but a lengthy campaign, unlike any other we have ever seen.” The long haul seems to have begun. Perhaps the most difficult part of the war will be breaking the hypnotic effects of Osama.

Picture credit: Google Images.

The Tri-Colour sweeps India

Past few months have been extremely eventful for India. The mass and the media have been busy with the filth of corruption. Team Dhoni brought some cheer for the country with their cricket world cup victory, Anna Hazare revolted against the dishonesty of the Indian polity with his Gandhigiri reminding Indians the real issues and now the death of Sathya Sai Baba is sweeping Indian society.

The common factor? The tri-colour that soared high at Wankhede, at Jantar Mantar and now to be used for the state honours of Sathya Sai. While every Indian is still busy with cricket and watching Sachin Tendulkar both at the IPL and in Puttaparthi we missed him at Jantar Mantar with Anna. This is true not only for him, but for the entire Indian cricket team that made the country proud. An opportunity lost by the team India that could have heat a master stroke with Anna’s delivery with Indian Political League is in a week position.

If joining Anna was tiring after a month long cricket campaign Twitter and blogging is not. If it was, why the men in blue pounced upon to their IPL campaign? And while Sachin can visit Sathya Sai in Puttaparthi for his last images then why not Jantar Mantar where the new revolution against the cancer of corruption took place? How could the entire Indian cricket team miss the episode?

Indian cricketers are known for their corporate alliance and have stayed away from politics. But in 2009 they showed their protest against the terrorist attack on the Sri Lankan players in Pakistan and in 2008 expressed support to their coach Gerry Kirsten on the sad demise of his mother by wearing black arm bands. Why not the same at IPL? Why not for India? While Anna’s fast jolted the government at centre things could possibly be political for team India as their road to ICC runs through BCCI.

While India is basking in the glory of cricket victory it should be born in mind that large parts of the country is facing the heat of political dishonesty and the pocket of the common Indian is being used to shower money onto wealthy cricketers. A one line statement by the Indian cricket team in support of Anna’s movement would have done more for their billion followers. This could have possibly set the stage for their post-cricket career, but Bollywood and corporate sector has better and lucrative offers. The players have not denied their iconic status and from being called the ‘god of cricket’ and will not deny national awards like Bharat Ratna.

But the players are not to be blamed completely as one of the biggest jokes about democracy comes from senior political leaders of the present government. According to Congress leader Mani Shankar Aiyar the recent movement at Jantar Mantar could undermine the process of democracy. How could a peaceful (Gandhian) movement harm the democracy? May be the Lok Pal bill has many more hurdles to go through.

Democracy is the game of your followers and you following them. The Indian mass is followed everywhere for the votes and to sell products. Now, as India is busy with Anna Hazare and Sathya Sai, and Sachin with IPL and his Guru it is time for Sachin and his team mates to reciprocate to their followers with some social work. This should help the government to make changes and award our cricketers with Barat Ratna. May Sathya Sai help Anna Hazare, team India and Indian politicians.

Picture credit: Google Images.

Democracy Version 2.0

Democracy Version 2.0

Hosni Mubarak, a figure larger than the Egyptian ‘Pharaoh’ has been brought down. The change has come to Egypt and now spreading across the Arab world.

But what next is the big question. The people of Egypt face an uncertain future. Can Egyptians work together or decent into anarchy or civil war? Will the Islamists take control and rework alliance with the West and Israel? Or will it be the military council continuing its present role?

While democracy promotion is not new to Egypt, but Tahrir Square has put the entire Arab world on the path of democratisation that has been suppressed by country dictators. The process of democratisation started in the year 2005, but for the very first time in decades social unrest in Egypt has shifted to decidedly anti-regime political unrest as opposed to riots.

Fortunately the revolution has remained more or less calm. But amidst the uprising euphoria concerns remain over the transit period. Former ministers are being put on judicial trial, old Prime Ministers being replaced with the new one, dissolution of Mubarak’s National Democratic party remains and the political detainees are still behind the bars.

Two things are unclear from this. First, the change is far from complete. And second, what are the long term prospects for Egypt? The people of Tahrir are not guaranteed a democratic and stable future unless free and fair elections are not conducted and much depends upon the authorities and they deal with the uprising democratic euphoria.

As Egypt has won Cairo more challenges await. The change is incomplete and likely to leave its hangover. India’s 60 years of experience with democracy tells the true story of freedom and discontent. The feeling of discontent among Indians is probably at its peak. While freedom flourishes in every possible form.

The Tahrir protestors complained about Mubarak regime’s iron fist rule, economic corruption and social suppression of the society. All in all hatred for Mubarak’s monopoly of power of over 30 years. Most Indians would list the same grievance about the independent democratic India. With several scams emerging with government’s involvement everything is up for grabs. The news media is blamed for political lobbying; judges are being arrested and jailed for bribery, government ministers jailed for political and business favouring. The three main pillars of democracy are deeply involved in corruption as a result of which the forth pillar i.e. the society i.e. the mass is feeling cheated. This could jeopardise the very social fabric of the society.

Democracy even if achieved will not solve Egypt’s problems overnight or even in next few decades. Democracy is an evolving process. Egypt invites expectations from the West as it enjoys economic, political and military strategic importance. At the same time it would have expectation from the Arab world, the international Islamic society over the issue of Israel-Palestine. With Mubarak gone, Egypt is busy removing his impression from every government institution, but before the regional expectations are met and ‘demubarakasition’ carried it is important for Cairo to fix rising food prices and youth unemployment.

There is long road to stable democracy, but in the Middle East – Egypt is best suited for democracy with its intellectual class, enterprising middle class, unique culture, five Noble prize awardees and most importantly the growing demand for democracy. Both American and Indian democracies are gifts of the colonial rule of centuries. They are peaceful but not perfect, there is progress and not chaos, there is corruption not destruction and there is rule of law and not governed by the book, military or a dictator. Mosques and Churches function together so does Burqua and bikini.

These elements are simple, but the implementation is difficult. The testing times have started for the people of Tahrir Square. In the lengthy procedure of ‘bringing’, developing, maintaining and protecting democracy Egypt’s liberal society, economic prospects and its seat in the Arab world, the West and conflicts in the neighbourhood offers the best opportunity to Cairo to leapfrog American and Indian version of democracy with its democracy version 2.0. The best tool at Egypt’s disposal is internet providing it the gateway to the world.

Tahrir has not only dethroned a dictator, but has set a trend for the Arab world and a chance to dismiss the ridicule of the Islamic society that has come to be associated with religious extremism in the post 9/11 world.

Following eight copies are the work done at DNA Newspaper on the World Desk and City Desk.